Retinoids and retinols (vitamin A derivative topicals) are a staple item for a good skincare routine. They are touted for their ability to prevent and treat fine lines and wrinkles, treat acne and blackheads, as well as improve pigmentation. However, there are some special considerations when using vitamin A topicals and there is a chance you are using them wrong.

Here are the five most common mistakes I see people make when it comes to retinoid/retinol application:

  1. You are applying them in the morning. Retinoids and retinols are best used at night time. They are deactivated by light and therefore won’t work as effectively as they should. Always apply these topicals at night time for best results.
  2. You are applying too much or too little. Topical retinoids are a wonderful product, but more does not mean better or faster results. In fact, it often means irritation, dryness and scaling. A pea sized amount is all you need to apply to the entire face. When you are first starting out, you may only want to start two nights per week until your skin tolerates it and then work your way up to nightly from there. Additionally, these products aren’t made for “spot treatments”. Make sure you are applying it evenly to the whole face.
  3. You aren’t moisturizing. The main side effect of topical retinoids is dryness. This is why it is imperative to apply moisturizer every night. There is a lot of debate about whether to apply moisturizer before or after your retinoid. If you have sensitive skin or are just starting out with a retinoid, consider applying moisturizer first, then the retinoid. If you are a seasoned pro with retinoids, I recommend applying the retinoid first and moisturizer second. If you are extremely dry, consider the “sandwich method” applying moisturizer before and after the application of the retinoid.
  4. You are using too many “active” ingredients at the same time. Examples of active ingredients include salicylic acid, glycolic acid, benzoyl peroxide, etc. These are all great skincare actives but when applied at the same time as retinoids/retinols it is often a recipe for disaster (think irritation galore)! More skincare products does not yield better results, keep it simple!
  5. You are not a candidate for retinols. Some reasons you shouldn’t be applying retinols include pregnancy, breastfeeding, active eczema, rosacea flares, sunburn or currently on Accutane. If you have questions about whether you are a candidate for vitamin A derivatives topicals (ie: retinol), schedule a consultation with a local dermatology provider for a consultation.

Well there you have it, that’s the top five things you may be doing wrong when applying retinoids/retinols to your skincare routine. If you haven’t started a retinol and are ready to get started, here are a few great retinol products to try!

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